There are times when we take to our favorite routes for a nice easy climb, and other times we move on to the unknown and take it up a notch just to see if we have the metal to do it. A successful climb on a day like that is only as good as the weakest piece of gear you bring with you. Aside from your body and skill level, one could easily point to the correct shoe being the next most important piece to the equation. This Spring we headed to the Rockies and put the La Sportiva Genius to the test!

Key Features:La Sportiva Genius Review

• No-Edge™ Technology delivers unparalleled edging performance on the rock
• P3® patented technology delivers mind bending power
• Lace-up comfort makes this shoe fit every type of foot
• AWARDS: Climbing Magazine – Editors’ Choice 2015

Construction:

Build: Slip lasted
UPPER: Suede leather / Microfiber
LINING: Unlined
MIDSOLE: 1.1mm LaspoFlex with P3®
SOLE: 3mm Vibram® XS Grip2™

La Sportiva Genius Review Breakdown

Design:

La Sportiva Genius ReviewThe Genius is definitely a sight to anyone unfamiliar with La Sportiva’s Permanent Power Platform® patented technology. This build is aggressively downturned, which puts the foot into the most efficient setup position to settle into rock with grip as needed each time. Once positioned, the LaspoFlex midsole is remarkably flexible, providing the climber whatever adjustments are necessary to to keep the hook-like toe engaged within the rock hold while establishing a position for their next move.

Not only is the build of this shoe equipped to handle whatever is thrown at it, the Vibram® XS Grip2™ rubber that makes up the heal and toe is ultra-durable, but still provides the give to stick right into the smallest of holds.

If you’re into an aggressive shoe, the La Sportiva Genius is what your looking for in aesthetics as well as build. The color scheme of bright red and yellow on black rubber is as visually stimulating as the climbs it can handle are gnarly.

Comfort:

For a heavy duty performance shoe such as this, climbers may have to make some concessions to overall comfort. The tighter, and potentially less comfort the Genius is, the better it will likely perform for you on the mountain. This is definitely not a shoe you’ll intend to wear during the times you’re spotting your partner or taking a breather. However, over time the genius will break in better to work with the foot, so you’ll want to go as uncomfortable as possible before it get’s to the point of being painful while picking up a pair at the local retailer. The good news is, the Genius has a clever off center lacing system that will help you adjust while you make the transition to fully broken in, and it can be loosened or tightened to adjust to different climbs or conditions. The toe box is a bit on the tight side from our experience, but the heal is stitched smoothly enough that it’s unnoticeable when worn, and well shaped to suction right on for the full climb.

Performance:

While comfort may be the victim of some sacrifice, the performance the La Sportiva Genius provides will make up for it significantly. The No-Edge platform is the concept that makes this shoe a marvel at what it does. No matter the plan of attack, because of this no-edge construction you can be assured that more rubber is making contact with rock than just about any other climbing shoe, thus making the success of hold greater for each move you make. Even when moves are less precise, the contact provided is noticeable, making the climber better able to spend less time getting a feel for the foothold, making the ascent quicker and more efficient with less energy spent.
La Sportiva Genius Review

Value:

While this isn’t a shoe for beginners, an experienced rock climber who knows their limits and is interested in testing them again and again will be well satisfied spending the asking price. The performance is bar none with the La Sportiva Genius, and that’s what really matters. For the type of climbing one can accomplish with a performance shoe of this caliber, the cost here is just a few drops in the barrel compared to the other gear it will require to get there.

Buy Now: $195 or to learn more, go to: Sportiva.com

La Sportiva Genius - Gear Review
A performance shoe for any climber who wants to up their game, The La Sportiva Genius is one of the best around. The No-Edge system makes this shoe a player that will that will take any climber up the face quickly and with ease.
Design9.5
Comfort8
Performance10
Value9.5
The Good
  • No-Edge Platform Performance
  • Durable Yet Pliable
  • Off-Center Lacing for Proper Fit
The Not-So-Good
  • Uncomfortable Off The Shelf
  • On the Pricey Side
9.3Overall Score
Reader Rating: (0 Votes)
0.0

About The Author

Creative Developer

The brain of Brad is a mysterious thing. As a youngster, Brad DesNoyers found his greatest strengths in all things creative as well as technical. Combine the two, and you get a graphic designer who spends his off time reviewing products for Busted Wallet. His background as an outdoor enthusiast, athlete, and all-around dedicated nerd has been extremely beneficial in keeping his readers informed why that next big purchase might be worth it. Brad also takes great pride in his memory of completely useless information, which has come in handy while writing his reviews and at Tuesday Trivia Night at the local brew pub.

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